![]() ![]() I prefer to run very low smoothing but after a flat spot the game is undrivable on csldd. ![]() I agree about the kerbs and the wheel testing the warranty even when at 60% and 4 smoothing. ![]() I personally only discovered the jolt recently on my csldd when I bought the bmw m2 and it’s the first car I don’t enjoy driving oddly I love it in ac and r3e. The users responded with various levels of success and enjoyment they have with csldd/dd1 or 2. I asked about the vrs dd they said basically any osw but fanatec is NOT recommended for rf2. FEI I think u might wanna look into….Everything else, short of a link for an sc2 pro lol. Fanatec Drivers where blamed, jolts where mentioned, fixes past or present where not offered. I'm am trying to understand what the "great RF2" ffb is all about.ĭriving the ligier LMP2 car for example, steering is very light in that car, but as soon as I run a kerb, the dd2 base wants to make use of its warranty and take the steering wheel with it.ĭevs in the discord just a few days ago in the hardware section talked about fana tec wheels being the worst for rf2. Even the first 5 corners or so can cause severe spikes in the ffb. Kerbs at Le Mans for example can be very aggressive. Kerb contact causes crazy high spikes in output, far more than holding high G through a corner. I have my fanatec damper at 28% for most cars.Īll of this is being done to maintain weight to the steering, while at the same time not rattling my rig to pieces from just looking at a kerb. Force effects (which is what RF2 runs the ffb to is set to 80ish, gain is 45 to 75 depending on the car profile. I've reduced ffb intensity on fanalab to 40/50 for most cars. Also adjusting the ffb multiplier in game. I've spent hours messing about with individual car ffb on fanalab. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |